After a week unwinding on Kea Island, we stopped at the Four Seasons Astir Palace in Athens for two nights before flying home….some people just call it the Four Seasons Athens. We had always been curious about what became of this legendary hideaway where Jackie O and Brando reportedly sunned themselves. The hotel has been reborn under Four Seasons, and while the polish is unmistakable, it still carries traces of its 1960s Riviera glamour — in both good and less charming ways. It’s an undeniably slick operation: handsome architecture, confident service, glossy guests. Yet beneath the perfection, there’s a hint of nostalgia that keeps it from feeling sterile. For a stopover that wants to feel like a holiday in itself, it’s difficult to do better so close to Athens.

Where: The hotel is about 30 minutes south of central Athens, perched along the Vouliagmeni Peninsula. It’s surrounded by pine forest and calm Aegean water, separate enough from the city to feel like a resort but close enough for a quick drive to the Acropolis.

Time of Year: Late August

Type of Trip: Couple’s stopover after an island stay

Length of Stay: 2 nights

Property

The property is split between two wings — Arion and Nafsika — with a private cove and long promenade tying them together. We stayed in Nafsika, which is newer and more contemporary, with floor-to-ceiling glass and a livelier energy. Arion, the refurbished grand dame, holds more charm and serenity; I’d choose it for a longer stay. The grounds are immaculate, with thoughtful design that amplifies the setting rather than competes with it. Pine trees provide natural shading along the paths, and the sea always seems within sight. The beach itself is a small crescent of pale sand — more manicured than natural, but the water is crystal clear. Two pools, one family-oriented and one quieter near Arion, mean the resort manages to feel simultaneously lively and peaceful. The overall effect is a resort that feels removed from Athens yet remains sophisticated enough to attract locals dropping in for dinner or sunset drinks.

Service

Service was characteristically Four Seasons: attentive, anticipatory, and polished to a shine. Staff at check-in seemed genuinely pleased to see us, despite the late-afternoon rush of arrivals and departures. The valet remembered our names after the first encounter, and the beach attendants never once let my glass of cold water run dry. The tone was friendly but not intrusive. There’s an ease to how the team handles high expectations — no exaggerated smiles, just capable efficiency. The only lapse was slow room service on the second evening (nearly 50 minutes for a salad and club sandwich), which felt out of sync with everything else.

Rooms

Our Nafsika Sea-View Room was generous in size, with glass doors opening onto a balcony that felt parallel to the horizon. The interiors are polished in that restrained Four Seasons way: blond wood, cream upholstery, and stone bathrooms that look straight from an architecture magazine. Technology is intuitive — touch panels, smart drapes, quiet climate control — though the lighting system required a learning curve. The bed was exceptional, easily among the most comfortable I’ve had in Greece. Closet space was ample for two, and luggage storage smartly concealed. Notably silent air conditioning and heavy doors kept corridor noise away. The only disappointment was the small writing desk, awkwardly positioned behind the sitting area; a missed opportunity for a property that often hosts business-leisure guests.

Food

Breakfast at Mercato was excellent but expensive for what it was. The buffet displayed Greek ingredients beautifully — thick local yogurt, honeycomb, grilled vegetables — but the à la carte section leaned more international than inspired. Dinner at Pelagos, on the other hand, was the standout: serious technique without pretension, locally focused menu, and staff who actually seemed interested in conversation about the wines. The poolside restaurant delivered exactly what late-summer hunger requires: grilled octopus, tomato salads, cold rosé. Prices match the clientele — high, but at least the quality justifies it. Room service was solid aside from speed. Overall, the culinary program feels thoughtful but not uniformly memorable unless you dine at Pelagos.

Extras & Activities

The hotel’s strength lies in its setting rather than programming. You come here to swim, tan, eat well, and exist in mild disbelief that you’re still technically in Athens. The spa is large and impressively designed, with an indoor saltwater pool and legitimate therapists rather than generic ‘relaxation’ staff. We skipped the water sports but saw plenty of guests heading out on paddleboards. The on-site boutiques are predictably upscale (Hermès beach towels, anyone?) but at least curated rather than cluttered. If you stay more than a few nights, you’ll likely want a car to explore nearby coastal tavernas or make a day trip into the city. As a two- or three-night break between islands or flights, the resort has just enough to keep you happy without ever feeling busy.

Big Takeaways / Who This Hotel Is For

Four Seasons Astir Palace is for travelers who prefer a soft landing in or out of Greece — somewhere that feels like a glamorous holiday rather than an airport stop. It blends the nostalgia of mid-century Athens Riviera with today’s Four Seasons precision, which is a rare and surprisingly successful mix. It’s not the place for backpacker energy or spontaneous chaos, but it excels at serenity and predictable excellence. I left feeling relaxed, sun-warmed, and mildly envious of people who make this their regular Athens base. I’d absolutely return, probably to Arion next time, and would consider it an almost necessary bookend when pairing city and island trips.